Fluffy and fermented like delicious ‘sanna’ in Goa

Sanna are those spongy, steamed rice cakes, made from a batter consisting of ground red rice (ukde) and freshly grated coconut. The rice and coconut are traditionally ground using toddy (sur), the fermented sap of the coconut palm.

Sanna are a popular accompaniment to Sorpotel, Xacuti, chicken curry and other meat curries. Their slight sweetness makes them the perfect pairing for these fiery, tangy gravies.

HOW THEY’RE MADE

To begin making sanna, the rice is first soaked for a few hours. It is then ground with toddy, after which, grated coconut, salt and sugar are added. The batter is left to ferment for some hours before steaming.

Fresh coconut toddy contains natural plant sugars and wild fermenting yeasts. Adding sugar to the toddy speeds up the fermentation process. When this active, fermenting toddy is mixed with soaked, ground rice, rock salt and ground coconut and then left overnight, vigorous carbon dioxide production occurs.

The fermented batter has tiny bubbles and a characteristic fermented smell. It is then transferred to greased moulds, and steamed for 20-25 minutes until cooked through.

TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES

There are 2 types of sanna:

• Plain sanna: The batter consists of rice and coconut, fermented with toddy


• Godachem / chunachi (sweet) sanna: The batter consists of rice, fermented with toddy. The sanna contain a coconut and jaggery mixture

Sanna are small in size and cooked in uniform moulds. Traditionally, locally crafted copper utensils called compro are used, which generate steam under low pressure. It is important that the batter does not turn sour, and over-steaming should be avoided, as excessive evaporation can make the sanna hard.

When the batter is dispensed into the moulds of the steam cooker, the trapped carbon dioxide escapes, improving the texture and making the sanna soft. Traditional red boiled rice (ukde), once commonly used, takes longer to cook but is far healthier and richer in nutrients. Nowadays, most sanna are prepared using white rice, which is more economical and cooks much faster.

MODERN METHODS

Toddy, an important ingredient required for fermenting the batter, is often replaced with yeast — either due to the unavailability of toddy or simply to save time, since yeast significantly reduces the fermentation period.

Some people even prepare homemade toddy using tender coconut water, fermenting it with active dry yeast, and many find the results quite satisfactory. In some cases, even Sprite is used as a substitute to make sanna.

Sanna are an excellent fermented food. Fermented foods are created through the action of microorganisms or beneficial bacteria that support overall health, particularly gut health. Fermentation is an enzyme-controlled chemical breakdown of organic substances.

Contrary to the popular belief that all bacteria are harmful, our bodies actually require certain beneficial bacteria to stay healthy and function optimally.

A GOAN ESSENTIAL

Sanna are light and are a good source of carbohydrates, fibre and trace amounts of vitamins and minerals. Both Hindus and Catholics in Goa prepare sanna, though their methods differ slightly. In Hindu households, urad dal is used as the leavening agent, whereas Catholic families rely on toddy. Sanna made with fresh toddy are an essential part of Catholic celebrations such as marriages, birthdays, feasts and Holy Communions.

Well-prepared sanna should be soft, fluffy, and never sour in taste. As we continue to hear about modern food concepts like probiotics, it’s worth remembering the many delicious dishes our ancestors perfected long ago using simple, natural methods such as fermentation.